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Old 04-10-07, 06:14 PM   #41
Frank Gonzalez
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Figure out a way to hold the torque tube from dropping when you remove the transmission. Otherwise you will crack the firewall with the back of the engine.

You need to remove the O2 sensor connections and the exhaust system at the manifolds. Check that the manifold studs are not bent. If bent you need new ones.

Read up on the proper procedure for removing the shift rod from the shifter. There is a sliding lock that must be engaged before removing the rod connection. Otherwise you will have a devil of a time adjusting the shifter rod.

When you install the new clutch, you may want to put in a remote bleeder. It makes hydraulic system maintenance easier.

Make sure you have a table showing all the proper torques and use a good torque wrench. Else, you may be losing bits and pieces down the road after assembly (this is NOT a joke).

Good luck. I have helped do these on a lift, but no way would I attempt it on the floor of my garage.

Finally, double-check and triple-check all the electrical connections after assembly. There are a lot of connectors to assemble and usually one is forgotten. Then you have to troubleshoot the problem(s) until you discover the unplugged connector. Also check the ground wire near the left rear wheel well.

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Old 04-10-07, 08:12 PM   #42
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I am with you Frank !! I would not try this on the ground.

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Old 04-10-07, 08:18 PM   #43
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got everything apart after work. it was pretty simple taking it out but I'm going to need another set of eyes and hands when I put it back in.







check out the headers:



I still have to pull the spark plugs and rotate the engine to get all the PP bolts out, I'm going to need a flywheel turner for that.
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Old 04-11-07, 06:25 PM   #44
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nobody around me sells a flywheel turner. I tried pepboys, autozone, SEARS, & advanced auto... wtf? Guess I have to order one online.
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Old 04-11-07, 06:43 PM   #45
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You don't have to take out the plugs to turn the engine over with a flywheel turner. Save yourself this hassle. Just turn the engine over slowly to give the compressed gases time to blow by.

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Old 04-11-07, 07:16 PM   #46
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well, I already took the headers off to heat wrap so getting at the plugs is no big deal. Besides I need to get the part number so I can get some spares.

I could turn the engine over by hand but I'm lazy and want to make it as easy as possible. In reality though I probably spent more time looking for a damn FW tool then it would have have taken to pull the thing already.
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Old 04-11-07, 07:56 PM   #47
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Looks like you are getting there !! Turn the flywheel by hand !! Turned many an 11 to 1 motor by hand in my day !!

Keep taking those photos!!

Bob
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Old 04-12-07, 10:17 AM   #48
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More pics will be coming tonight. I'm going to get off my lazy butt and get the clutch out so I can finally send it to McLeod.

While everything is apart I'm going to use the down time to heat wrap some items, specifically the headers & clutch hydraulic lines. I'm also going to replace the TOB and clutch slave with new OEM units while I'm in there.

Anyone else have any ideas of worth while stuff to do while I'm in there? I was thinking of sending the trans off to t56rebuilds while its out but its not broke so I might as well wait until that happens...

I hope I can get a full season of racing out of everything before I have to pull it apart and "refresh" it again.
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Old 04-15-07, 05:20 PM   #49
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How about an update??? Are you stalled out, taking a break or in trouble??? I've been following this thread with great interest.
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Old 04-15-07, 06:58 PM   #50
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I finally got around to pulling the clutch this afternoon. FYI: for anyone with w/a Mcleod twin disk clutch, you will have to loosen the five bolts that hold the bellhousing to the block but you don't have to remove them. I just backed them about halfway out and was able to drop the pressure plate right off.
Upon inspection I found that everything looks perfect. No busted straps or broken springs. check it:



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Old 04-15-07, 06:59 PM   #51
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One thing that was really weird was the damaged pilot bearing. I could reach in with my finger and pull it out. I didn't even get to use my new bearing puller tool




What kind of problems would that destroyed pilot bearing cause? would that make it difficult to get into 1st & reverse?
I'm still leaning towards a hydraulic problem. I took the clutch slave & master off and assembled everything on my bench. I couldn't even bleed all the air out of it with my mityvac. I'm thinking there also might be a problem with the 'stockish' clutch master cylinder, which is supposed to be a cartek adjustable MS, but is just a stock AP unit with a threaded rod on the eye-let part. McLeod recommend using one of their MS with their twin-disk clutch setups, this might have been the cause of the problem from the door.

After seeing how good condition the clutch assembly is in I kind of don't want to sent it back to McLeod.

What ya'll think?
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Old 04-15-07, 07:51 PM   #52
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That's weird about the pilot bearing it looks like it is actually a roller beaqring and not a bushing. Were the roller bearings still there or did they disintergate into dust?
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Old 04-15-07, 07:57 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alwaysinboost

What kind of problems would that destroyed pilot bearing cause? would that make it difficult to get into 1st & reverse?
I'm still leaning towards a hydraulic problem. I took the clutch slave & master off and assembled everything on my bench. I couldn't even bleed all the air out of it with my mityvac. I'm thinking there also might be a problem with the 'stockish' clutch master cylinder, which is supposed to be a cartek adjustable MS, but is just a stock AP unit with a threaded rod on the eye-let part. McLeod recommend using one of their MS with their twin-disk clutch setups, this might have been the cause of the problem from the door.

After seeing how good condition the clutch assembly is in I kind of don't want to sent it back to McLeod.

What ya'll think?
The racing season is just getting underway. Send the assembly back while you've got it out this time. Start fresh. I put in a clutchin my 96 LT4 and a year later I was pulling it and and putting all new stuff in it. Same with the rear I put in my 96. I didn't put in new posi clutchs and now, a year later, I have to. Freshen it up while it's apart. I'd have to say that the Pilot bearing would affect 1st and reverse. How's the front bearing on the torque tube?
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Old 04-15-07, 09:08 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92RAGTOP
That's weird about the pilot bearing it looks like it is actually a roller beaqring and not a bushing. Were the roller bearings still there or did they disintergate into dust?
those roller bearings were all intact. you can get an idea of how it broke in this pic:



when I went to the parts store to order a new bearing they had a part number for a bushing too. I don't know where that part comes to play though, maybe the bushing installs behind the pilot bearing or on the input shaft??
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Old 04-15-07, 09:08 PM   #55
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id say put anew clutch in now too,its not worth going through all that work again. im suprised thats a fabric clutch, not metallic.are the discs warped does the center ptate hang up. is there a flywheel side and pressure plate side.ive put thousands of double discs clutch,es in trucks, cant say the same for corvettes.
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Old 04-15-07, 09:10 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony B.96LT4
The racing season is just getting underway. Send the assembly back while you've got it out this time. Start fresh. I put in a clutchin my 96 LT4 and a year later I was pulling it and and putting all new stuff in it. Same with the rear I put in my 96. I didn't put in new posi clutchs and now, a year later, I have to. Freshen it up while it's apart. I'd have to say that the Pilot bearing would affect 1st and reverse. How's the front bearing on the torque tube?
good point about just getting it rebuilt with it all apart. If I can get a full race season out of this clutch and only have to drop the trans once I will be one happy camper . we'll see if that can actually happen though.

so, do you think the pilot bearing was the cause of all my problems??
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Old 04-15-07, 09:15 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonmentzer
id say put anew clutch in now too,its not worth going through all that work again. im suprised thats a fabric clutch, not metallic.are the discs warped does the center ptate hang up. is there a flywheel side and pressure plate side.ive put thousands of double discs clutch,es in trucks, cant say the same for corvettes.
I was suprised not to see carbon or copper disks too. looks like its just two unsprung organic disks. makes sense i guess since the engaugement was very smooth, not chattery like a copper disk is. obviously it worked because as I said in the begining of this whole ordeal the clutch didn't slip, it was just like an on/off switch.
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Old 04-15-07, 09:28 PM   #58
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that is a complaint of metallic clutch discs,they grab to hard, but they hold up alot better. im also surprised they,re not spring dampened discs.they absorb torsional vibration and shock load.
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Old 04-16-07, 11:38 AM   #59
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nobody else has any input....?
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Old 04-16-07, 11:57 AM   #60
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Check out this post from another board. Kind of similar.
http://www.z06vette.com/forums/showt...11#post1185811
Down shifting was fine but up shifts took a lot of time. post #8
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